A big thanks to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn and to Flying Squid Studio for providing the final photos for this Crochet-Along.

Welcome to the Kram Cardi Crochet-Along! If you are just joining us be sure to check out THIS POST first for sizing information supply list.

PDF Purchasing Information

If you’d like to purchase the Kram Cardi PDF you can do so by clicking below. This is NOT required as all the information, additional instructions and extra photos will be located on the blog. In other words, the PDF is the pattern ONLY. The PDF may come in handy if you’d like to print off the pattern without all the ads and photos. [product id=8025]

Week 3: Fronts, Back and Trim

I hope everyone had a great week! Did you make it through the bottom? If so who’s ready to try something a little more exciting!? Don’t worry if you’re not quite done with the bottom. This week we’re doing a little more than half of what we did last week so you’ll have time to catch up.

This week we will be working the right front, the bottom, the left front and then the trim last. You can find all those by looking at your schematic.

If you need go back to week 1 to read all the pattern notes.

While this week it will be less work, the instructions will be a bit more involved.

Remember all the curling you see in my photos will be corrected when we block. Also, a lot of you asked about weaving in your ends. You’ll see in my photos that I wait until after I block to weave anything in. It’s just my preference. You could weave them in as you go but I leave them just in case I need to go back and change something. HERE is a video by Moogly on weaving in ends. I do it just as she does in the beginning of the video. I just go back and forth 3 times and not down to the next row.

What You’ll Need this Week

• Cascade 220 Superwash (100% superwash wool; 220 yd/200 m/ 3.5oz/100g; worsted/4 weight) 5(6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9) balls of Ridge Rock (874) or the color of your choice.
  • We wont be using all the yarn this week obviously but you should have it all ready.
• The hook you used to get the correct gauge (remember I’m using an H/5mm hook)

Ready? Hopefully you remembered to NOT cut your yarn because we’ll pick up right where we left off. If you did cut your yarn you can just pick up a new loop where you fastened off. No big deal 🙂

Right Front

Just a reminder the pattern is written for sizes XS(S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X)

Row 1: Ch 2, turn, working in the FLO dc in the first 22(26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46).
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, working in the FLO sc in each st across. 22(26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46)
Row 3: Ch 2, turn, working in the FLO dc in each st across. 22(26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46)
Repeat row 2 and 3 until you have 5(7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11) total rows.

Neck Shaping

Here, we will just be decreasing a few stitches to allow for some neck shaping. Nothing too fancy.

Row 1: Ch 1, turn, working in the FLO sc each st until 2 sts remain, skip 1, sc in the last. 21(25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45)
Row 2: Ch 2, turn, working in the FLO dc in each st across. 21(25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45)
Repeat rows 1 and 2, 3 more times (that’s 6 more rows total). 18(22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42)

Sizes XS, M, 1X and 3X only
Last row: Ch 1, turn, working in the FLO sc in each st across. 18(26 34, 42)

Fasten off.

At this point you should have 14(15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) total rows for the right front.

Back

Return to the last row of the bottom, skip 8 sts from the last st of the right front and join.
I joined with a slip knot.

Row 1: Ch 2, working in the FLO dc in the first 60(68, 76, 84, 92, 100, 108)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, working in the FLO sc in each st across. 60(68, 76, 84, 92, 100, 108)
Row 3: Ch 2, turn, working in the FLO dc in each st across. 60(68, 76, 84, 92, 100, 108)

Repeat row 2 and 3 until you have 14(15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) rows total for the back.
Fasten off.

Left Front

You’ll work the left front as you did the right front, just in reverse.

Return to the last row of the bottom, skip 8 sts from the last st of the back and join.

Row 1: Ch 2, working in the FLO dc across. 22(26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, working in the FLO sc in each st across. 22(26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46)
Row 3: Ch 2, turn, working in the FLO dc in each st across. 22(26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46)
Repeat row 2 and 3 until you have 5(7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11) rows total.

Neck Shaping

Row 1: Ch 1, turn, working in the FLO sc the 1st, skip 1, sc in each remaining st across. 21(25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45)
Row 2: Ch 2, turn, working in the FLO dc in each st across. 21(25, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45)
Repeat rows 1 and 2, 3 more times (again, 6 more rows total). 18(22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42)

Sizes XS, M, 1X and 3X only
Last row: Ch 1, turn, working in the FLO sc in each st across. 18(26 34, 42)
Fasten off.

At this point you should have 14(15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) total rows. Hmm…the same as the right front and the back. Funny how that all worked out. It’s like I planned it or something 😛

Take some time to double check your row and stitch counts. It will be better to catch any mistakes now rather than when you’re ready to sew your pieces together.

Right Trim

TIP: If you’re working on a size that requires the extra stitch to make the stitch count even don’t stress this too much. It really doesn’t matter where you add it, just as long as its there. When I made mine I added it up at the top.

The instruction “evenly sc” can throw some off. General rule of thumb is place 1 sc per chain in the turning ch. So for every single crochet row you add 1 sc (because we started that row with a ch 1) and for every double crochet row place 2 sc (because we started that row with a ch 2).

With right side facing join to the side of the end of the fsc row. This is the bottom of the right side.

Sizes XS, S, 1X and 2X only
Row 1: Ch 1, sc evenly up the side of the cardigan (work 1 sc in the end of sc rows and 2 sc in the end of dc rows), add 1 extra sc anywhere to make the stitch count even, ch 13. 92(94, 98, 100) and 13 chs

Sizes M, L and 3X only
Row 1: Ch 1, sc evenly up the side of the cardigan (work 1 sc in the end of sc rows and 2 sc in the end of dc rows), ch 13. (94, 96, 100) and 13 chs

All Sizes
Row 2: Working in the FLO sc in the 2nd ch from hook, dc in the next, (sc in the next, dc in the next) 10 times, *sc in the next sc, dc in the next; repeat from * across. 104(106, 106, 108, 110, 112, 112)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, working in the FLO, sc in each dc and dc in each sc across. 104(106, 106, 108, 110, 112, 112)

Repeat row 3 until you have 10 rows total.
Fasten off.

Note: There’s not need to pin anything out yet. I just added pins for these photos so you all can see what it looks like.

 

Left Trim

You will now work the left trim as you did the right trim but in reverse.

Sizes XS, S, 1X and 2X only
Row 1: Ch 12, with right side facing evenly sc down the left side of the cardigan, add an extra sc anywhere to make the stitch count even. 92(94, 98, 100) and 12 chs

Sizes M, L and 3X only
Row 1: Ch 12, with right side facing evenly sc down the left side of the cardigan. (94, 96, 100) and 12 chs

In the photo below I have chained 12 and worked the first sc into the side of the first row.

All sizes
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, working in the FLO sc in the first st *dc in the next, sc in the next; repeat from * across to the 12 chs, sc in the first ch, dc in the next ch, *sc in the next, dc in the next; repeat from * across. 104(106, 106, 108, 110, 112, 112)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, working in the FLO, sc in each dc and dc in each sc across. 104(106, 106, 108, 110, 112, 112)

Repeat row 3 until you have 10 rows total.

Trim row: Ch 1, evenly sc down the left front, across the bottom and up the right front of the cardigan.
Fasten off.

Here is the body all done. Looks just like the schematic. Yay!

Adjustments to Length

For this section I don’t recommend you make any adjustments. If you change the length here your sleeves wont fit in properly. However if you’d like you can make a smaller or larger sleeve as stated in the pattern. For example, I have thin arms so I could make size small and and a XS sleeve. To do this I would just follow the length instructions on this post for XS but keep the width the same. I would also follow the instructions for XS for the sleeves next week.

If you’re saying, “Katy, what the heck are you talking about?!” I wouldn’t attempt it right now 😉

 

Take a moment to step back and admire your work. Then set this piece aside. We’ll pick it back up when we’re ready to block and sew. Can you believe we only have the sleeves left and then we’re ready to wrap this cardigan up!?