Kram Cardi CAL: Design Reveal and Supply List | KT and the Squid

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Here we go! This is the official start of the Kram Cardi CAL. My very first crochet-along!

The Kram Cardi was designed with my fans in mind. If you’ve never made a cardigan or sweater or any garment before then this should be perfect! During the CAL you’ll probably learn some new skills but I’ll be here every step to of the way. Skills you’ll need (but can learn as you go) include foundation stitches, single crochet, double crochet, working in the front loop, blocking and seaming. I took as many photos as I could throughout the process to try to be as clear as possible.

The Pattern:

The pattern will be available here on my blog completely FREE. That’s right, there’s no need to purchase the pattern at all. However, I have made an Official Kram Cardi PDF that is available for purchase for $2 (yep, only $2!). This will come in handy if you’d like the pattern in it’s entirety to print free of ads. I will have the link to purchase next week.
Please keep in mind you do NOT need to purchase the PDF to participate in this CAL. 

Kram Cardi CAL Crochet along

The Schedule:

The CAL will be broken up into 5 parts from 8/14/15 to 9/25/15. Honestly, I could whip out a sweater in a few days but I want to make we go at a nice comfortable pace. Here is the schedule (I will add links to each part as they are posted).

Week 0 (this post): Pick a Size and Gather Supplies

Week 1: Gauge and Giveaway Info

Week 2: Bottom

Week 3: Fronts, Back and Trim

Week 4: Sleeves

Week 5: Blocking and Seams

Week 6 (9/25/15): Yarn Giveaway Winner is Announced

Let’s get started!

Sizes:

No, there is no actual crocheting this week but you do need to do something very important (besides gather supplies). You need to pick a size! There’s a little more info about picking a size HERE if you’re interested.

Please don’t just pick the size you think you are. A small for one pattern is not the same as a small for another pattern so we need to check some measurements. It’s like trying on clothes at a clothing store to make sure you buy something that fits.

Lets start with the basics, the pattern is written for sizes XS(S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) (I’ll keep this color coding throughout to keep things easy on you all so make note of your color now) and designed to fit a bust of 28”(32”, 36”, 40”, 44”, 48”, 52”). Finished busts are 34”(38”, 42”, 46”, 50”, 54”, 58”). I designed the cardigan to have 6″ of positive ease (so the actual cardigan is 6″ larger than the actual bust) with a 4″ overlap in the front.

Designer Insight: I added a generous 4″ overlap in the front of the cardigan because I wanted it to be like a big hug (Kram is Swedish for hug).

With a t-shirt and the undergarment on of your choice measure you bust at it’s fullest. Get someone to help you if you can. This will give you an general idea of what size you should make.

Now, not everyone will fit exactly into these measurements and that’s OK. Perfect example, my gorgeous model above has a bust of 35″ and is wearing size small.  This just means it’s a bit more fitted on her and we both loved how it fit. At the same time, I have a 32″ bust and am wearing the exact same cardigan here below (it’s the same color, just different lighting). It’s so comfy and over-sized. I still love it! My model probably could have gone up a size for a more over-sized/comfy fit and I could have gone down a side for a more fitted sweater.

Kram Cardi CAL Crochet along

Need a little more info? OK! Here’s our schematic. Feel free to print this off (click on it to make it larger). It will come in handy when we get to the blocking.

Kram Cardi CAL Crochet along

Looks a little funny, huh? Don’t worry it will all make sense as we go. I’ve added a few labels so hopefully, you can understand what will go where. Don’t worry about the colors, they will be used when we get to the seaming.

On your schematic are some important measurements. You’ll use them when you block your finished pieces and you can use them now to help pick a size. Go to your closet (right now!), grab a top/sweater/cardigan, whatever article or clothing that you like the how it fits and a tape measure. Measure these key places on your garment and compare to the schematic. It still might not be perfect but it will give you something to actually look at and see how it might fit on your body.

Do you know what size you’ll be making? Great! Let’s move on to the supplies. Still not sure? That’s OK. I’ve created a Facebook group HERE. Feel free to join and maybe another participant or I can help!

Not happy with some of the lengths? I can help a little. If you need a longer/shorter body or sleeve these are easy things to fix and I’ll give you some advise when we get there. Keep in mind any alterations will affect the amount of yarn you’ll need.

Disclaimer: While I would love to have made a size to fit everyone these are the 7 sizes I have chosen. If you’d like to try too alter the pattern to make it larger or small please feel free to do so but at your own risk. Unfortunately, besides simple length changes I will not be able to advise you on how to do this at this time. Thank you for understanding!

What You’ll Need

Kram cardi CAL supply list

YARN!:  Cascade 220 Superwash (100% superwash wool; 220 yd/200 m/ 3.5oz/100g; worsted/4 weight) 5(6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9) balls of Ridge Rock (874) or the color of your choice.

You can purchase yarn from several places. If you have a LYS (local yarn store) they will most likely have it. Craftsy, Amazon, Annie’s, Patternworks, and Paradise Fibers carry it. If you are in the UK HERE is your Amazon link.

Make sure you purchase 220 Superwash and NOT 220 Superwash Sport. Sport is a thinner yarn and may not work for this pattern.

  • Yarn Substitutes:
    • If you’re looking for a bit more affordable yarn or maybe just a different color I 100% recommend Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland wool; 220 yd/200 m/ 3.5oz/100g; worsted/4 weight): It matches perfectly for gauge and feels/drapes the same. The only drawback is it’s not superwash so you have to handwash (which is what I do anyways).
    • Allergic to wool? Or maybe you’d just like another fiber? Here are some yarns from Cascade that may be a good substitute. I was able to match gauge for all of these yarns but be prepared to spend a bit more time and use more yarn checking your gauge. You should be able to get most of these from your LYS, Craftsy, Paradise Fibers, Amazon and Amazon UK.
      • Cascade Cherub Aran (55% nylon, 45% acrylic; 240 yd/220 m/ 3.5oz/100g; worsted/4 weight): I felt this was the best substitute it feels very similar and it’s usually a great price.
      • Cascade Sateen Worsted (100% acrylic; 225 yd/206 m/ 3.5oz/100g; worsted/4 weight): This yarn was a bit splitty but I really liked how it worked up. The fabric was a bit more dense (not too bad) but still really soft and nice against the skin.
      • Cascade Ulra Pima (100% pima cotton; 220 yd/200 m/ 3.5oz/100g; light/3 weight): LOVE this yarn! It’s so soft and not too heavy for a cotton. The fabric draped a lot more than the superwash but it would make a wonderful cardigan.
      • Cascade North Shore (100% acrylic; 220 yd/200 m/ 3.5oz/100g; light/3 weight): This was very similar to Ultra Pima but a bit less drape. Perfect if you don’t want the weight of the cotton.

Disclaimer: Feel free to make a yarn substitute at your own risk. Please note the yardage of Cascade 220 if your substitute has more or less yarn per ball you’ll have to purchase the correct amount accordingly.

Hook: H/5mm (or hook to obtain gauge)

  • Gauge will be extremely important for this project. You may not have the same tension as I do and that’s perfectly fine. Be prepared to go up or down a hook size if needed. I’ll talk more bout this next week.

Scissors

Yarn Needle

Blocking Supplies: If you have never blocked in item in your life don’t worry! I’ll help you out. We will start by blocking our gauge swatch so you will want to get these items by next week (some things you can improvise).

  • Pins
    • I also used Knitter’s Pride Knit Blocker
    • Your pins should be stainless steel/rust proof. T-pins will work well and you can get them in any craft store (I’ve even seen them at Walmart). You’ll need quite a few.
  • A space to block
    • For my gauge swatch I’ll use a small Boye Crochet Dude Blocking Board .
    • For the finished cardigan pieces I’ll use larger foam boards (like THESE). They are usually used for gym floors and they work perfectly because you can connect them to fit he size/shape of your pieces your blocking.
    • You could also use a spare bed or even just some clean carpet space and some towels. Any surface you can pin into should work just fine.
  • Soap
    • I use Eucalan but Soak works just as well (I enjoy the jasmine scent).
    • You can also just use some dish soap.
  • Bowl/Basin/Sink to wash the pieces in.
  • Tape Measure

Pins for sewing seams

  • I really like Knit Klips (the mini Knit Klips are good too) but something like safety pins work just as well.

Optional: A button or snap to close the cardigan. I didn’t use one on my cardigan.

Be sure to add the Kram Cardi CAL to your Ravlery queue by clicking HERE.

 

38 thoughts on “Kram Cardi CAL: Design Reveal and Supply List | KT and the Squid

  1. I cannot wait to get going on this. I started working, and will need a sweater for the cold office. I walked the mall, hitting the stores that carry plus sizes looking for an xl sized sweater that did not have xs sized arms. (My new pet peeve). I gave up and decided I would make my own. I had not picked a pattern yet, so this is right on time. Thank you for including arm/sleeve measurements, as they are especially important to me.

    Getting supplies together and will be ready to go next week.

    1. Oh my gosh!!! I have the SAME problem with sleeves on long sleeved t’s and sweaters!!! What is it with companies making stick like arms on Lg and XL clothing so that we looked like we have stuffed sausages attached to our bodies??!!! I was looking at the schematic of this pattern and jumping for joy on the inside!

  2. What LYS do you shop at? I checked Jo-Ann, Michaels, and Hobby Lobby and none of them have this… Is there a more common yarn brand that might work besides just Cascade substitutes?

  3. I really want to jump in on this but will be leaving for a 3 week road trip in less than 2 weeks time 🙁 but I have the yarn already and want a simple cardigan and this would be perfect!

    I noticed someone asking about different yarns. My favorite website since it’s inception is…. http://yarnsub.com/yarns/cascade_yarns/220_superwash I even have it selected to the yarn used for this pattern for those needing/wanting to sub it 🙂

  4. i can’t wait to get started!! Got my yarn in the mail today. I went with the cascade sateen worsted as I am not a fan of wool 🙂 it was $4.95 a skein where I ordered from. I have a local yarn store, but they are quite expensive.

  5. OMG! Love this so much! I am just finishing up my Bancroft top now and love it. I have some Bamboo Ewe in my stash that will be perfect for this! I’ll be going with a 1X size 🙂

    1. Yes there should be enough unless you end up making quite a few.
      If you absolutely need to you can rework the swatched yarn into the cardigan.

  6. I want to make this for my mom. Unfortunately she can’t wear wool, not even the super washed wool, it gives her a rash. So I want to make it out of acrylic yarn. My question is does it still need to be blocked? I didn’t think acrylic yarn could be blocked. Thanks! Can’t wait to start this project!

    1. Yes! You still need to block. You should block every gauge swatch so you don’t end up with a sweater down to your knees. How you block is up to you. Wet blacking will still work. I like to steam block acrylic.

  7. Wow. I’ve been making blankets, which I love, but was thinking I’d like to make something wearable for myself. I love cardis and Cascade 220 Superwash is my fave! Talk about good timing. Hoping to get involved 😊

  8. My daughter and I are going to make this sweater. She is a beginner and I have some years of experiment. It’s going to be fun to do together. We’ve made our swatches and can’t wat to get started.

  9. Just ordered my yarn. I’ve been wanting to attempt making a sweater, and this seems like a good one to try. Thanks!!

  10. Curious how much yarn it would take to do this in DK weight. I’d really like a lighter weight sweater for myself. I’d REALLY like to make it with Malabrigo. But unless I can find that an an unusually low price, DK will have to do. I have no way of knowing how to figure out how much yarn it will take. Can you help?

    Can’t do it right now, as I have project(s) that must be finished first. But I am saving and will do this in the near future. Thanks so much for this CAL. Great pattern (have been looking for a nice cardi pattern) and, as usual, great instructions!

    Thank you!

    1. Hey Carol,
      If you meet the gauge it will be the same yardage. I actually tried a couple dk yarns and was able to meet it just fine. 220 superwash is on the thinner side. So you should be good 🙂

  11. At first, I thought there must be a Swedish designer behind this cardigan.
    Why? Because KRAM in Swedish means HUG!
    Love the design!

  12. I just completed this pattern – my FIRST sweater ever. It came out absolutely perfect. Thank you SO much for the wonderful, step-by-step instructions. I will likely make this sweater many more times in different colors / stripes. Thank you!!

  13. I’m new at crocheting and this is my first attempt at clothing. I love this pattern! I did have a question though in following the directions – once I have finished the 47 rows for the back, do I tie off the yarn, then do a new chain for the lapels? Sorry for the “dumb question” but I don’t want to mess up my first attempt! Thanks!

    1. Not a dumb question at all! Do not fasten off and just continue to the next post 🙂
      Even of you do you won’t mess it up. You’ll just have one extra end to weave in. Not a big deal 😉

      1. Thank you for the speedy reply! I actually meant the bottom section (I accidentally referenced “back” above). Also if I could clarify one other thing. In row 2 it says “Ch 2, does not count as a st from here on”. That means when I count (using 168 stitches for the Large size), I will see 168 plus that ch 2 at the end? I’m guessing that is where I start to attach the right front… I’ve been using YouTube to learn how to crochet things, this is the first written pattern I’ve tried following. It is very detailed and awesome — wish I’d paid more attention to my Mom when she tried to explain them to me though! 😉

        1. Yes, so that ch will be extra to your 168.
          I had to go back and look at the front section because I didn’t remember. The right front will actually just continue where you left off from the bottom.

  14. So sorry to keep bugging you! I’ve got the double crochet row figured out as to stitch count but I seem to keep getting off track on the single crochet row. Am I still supposed to have 168 stitches plus the extra one? Or just the 168 for those rows?

    1. No worries!
      For the sc rows it should be 168 plus the ch 1. If you have an extra sc it could be that you are working a sc in that ch 2 from the dc rows. Just skip that 🙂

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